Just recently, I had written a piece about my walk around at the Chinese New Year Bazaar at Singapore Chinatown. Every year, the streets of Chinatown bursts into a lively spectacle, and attracts throngs of locals and tourists alike.
The Chinese New Year holidays are usually (for me at least) a brief respite from the daily grind of the corporate machineries in The Little Red Dot we call home. My brother and I thought a change in scenery could be worthwhile, so off we scooted to Hanoi.
I had last visited Hanoi in 2014, and had grown fond of the country, the people, and their culture; a culture shaped by centuries of conflict with, and domination, by foreign forces which had no doubt forged a nation of incredibly resilient and adaptable people.
This time round, we had the unique opportunity to visit Vietnam during the festivities of Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year). In my camera bag were just the X-T5 and two prime lenses (the title of this post – “Prime Time” in Hanoi, get it?) – the XF18mm f/1.4, and XF33mm f/1.4. I deliberately left my zoom lens behind as I toyed with the simplicity of working within the constraints of fixed focal lengths.
Zoom with my feet? Alright then…
The Day Before Tet
We arrived in Hanoi at about noon after a 3-plus hour flight from Singapore. To be honest, I hadn’t exactly been looking forward to this trip – especially after hearing stories about how deserted the city would become as businesses shuttered and families flocked home to celebrate this once-in-a-year occasion.
In fact, I very nearly cancelled this trip!
I was initially resigned to the possibility that our four nights in Vietnam’s capital would be spent mainly holed up in our hotel room, and subsisting on a diet of water and instant pho (which would be a sad way to spend the Lunar New Year).
24-hour convenience stores continued to operate during Tet, so we weren’t at risk of starving to death. Very nice.
Even in the late afternoon on the eve of Tet, the streets were bustling with life! Motorbikes scooting up and down the streets and shop owners selling their wares at the Old Quarter and beyond.
It appeared as though families were trying to wrap up their shopping as they rushed home to prepare for the reunion dinner.
The festivities didn’t seem to dampen the enthusiasm of those visiting from abroad – tourism was very much alive on the eve of Tet, which was something I had not quite expected. Perhaps like myself, they were there to experience the festivities too.
A walk through streets was indeed quite the sensory experience – food sellers hawking their wares, pedestrians and motorists jamming the narrow thoroughfares of The Old Quarter.
In Vietnam, crossing the street is like participating in competitive sports (in my opinion anyway). Indeed, I found myself needing to constantly evade the traffic and this wore me down quickly – you know, trying hard not to get killed! But I believed that the happenings in and around the area would provide for many good photo opportunities. So persevered I did.
It wasn’t long before we found ourselves at the market which borrows its name from the nearby street. Hang Be Market was just a short walk from our hotel. There were numerous street vendors selling local snacks and other traditional dishes, as well as a good number of stalls selling fresh locally-grown produce.
As we ventured into a narrow turn at the market, we saw chickens being prepared for slaughter. These, we hardly see in Singapore nowadays. Not a good day to be a chicken.
The chickens are boiled, marinated, and then adorned with rose branches. We also learned that this dish is used in ritual offerings to the Kitchen Gods. These are typically sold during the weeks leading up to the Lunar New Year, and can be found at the street markets in the vicinity of the Old Quarter.
Businesses continued to operate till late in the afternoon – presumably to cater to those doing their last-minute shopping. Most of these businesses appear to be family-owned, and cater to both tourists and locals alike.
The coffee scene in Hanoi is varied, rich and deeply ingrained in the social fabric of the city. In just the Old Quarter alone, it seemed like there is a coffee shop at just about every street corner.
A New Year Beckons
It was a cool and quiet morning on the first day of Tet, in stark contrast to what we had experienced just the day before. Many families must have stayed up late the night before.
After having our breakfast at the hotel, we set off for a stroll by Hoàn Kiếm Lake. We revisited the market streets, and as expected, the businesses were closed for the festivities. The hustle and bustle from the previous day was now subdued by silence.
On our way to the Temple of Literature, we first stopped by Hồ Văn Cultural Village where the festive spirit could be seen and felt. Locals were seen donning their traditional attires and participating in calligraphy writing, among other activities – indeed the perfect setting for people-watching and getting up close.
Next, we stopped by the temple complex – also known as the Temple of Confucius – which was built by Lý Thánh Tông in 1070. The Temple of Literature was home to the Imperial Academy – the nation’s first institution of higher learning. The place was swarming with locals and tourists, which made taking pictures ever more challenging as the crowd often obstructed my field of view.
As we approached the House of Ceremonies, we passed by the meticulously-restored Stelae of Doctors, on which are inscribed the names of scholars to commemorate the graduation of royal mandarins from the 15th to 18th centuries.
Just as we entered the Fourth Courtyard, we observed a ceremonial offering taking places at the House of Ceremonies which houses an altar to Confucius.
Wrapping Up
Relying on just my prime lenses forced me to be more selective about my subjects, and more deliberate with framing and composition, which certainly resulted in better captures overall.
Not only was the weather in Hanoi pleasant this time of year; bringing less gear meant it was easier to move about and explore the hidden gems in this enchanting city.
So what can I say? No regrets, and I’m certainly glad I did not cancel my trip.
Further Reading
For more pictures, check out my portfolio – The Arrival of Spring.